Sweeping onto the sands of Cala Jondal sits the well established Tropicana Beach Club: a relaxed chiringuito style bar and a more formal restaurant alongside it and the subject of this review. The restaurant has an extensive international menu, overseen by head chef Pepe, a local, who has been running the show in the kitchen for the past ten years. They offer a wide selection of paellas and rice dishes and fish is hugely popular at lunchtimes.
The place has been going strong since 1988, originally starting as a single restaurant; it has grown into a fully formed beach club, offering massages, beach service for food and drinks on one of the very comfortable sun loungers and a classy boutique. The vibe here is very chilled, the music too is pure Ibiza-style chill out tunes and well, it all just works. They've really tried to think about getting you to relax here. The chairs in the restaurant are some of the most comfy I've ever sat in: you can really sit back and take it all in without using any muscles unnecessarily. I point this out because there are plenty of places where style wins over substance. Here the two are married, get on very well and aren't about to file for divorce any time soon.
Dramatic setting
The setting is pretty lovely too; with the dramatic Jurassic cliffs of Cala Jondal and the palm sun parasols that line the beach in front, down to the wooden pier and giant pebbles being washed by the sea. It was a windy day when we went so we managed to catch some surfers taking advantage of the big waves. The staff are very pleasant and helpful and there are a lot of them, because the owners want all customers to be treated well and not be left wanting.
The food is very well done and it's clear it's been thought about. Nothing is too heavy or too oily, there's a lot of finesse. We began with a plate with pieces of toasted bread topped with smoked sardine, sun dried tomato and guacamole. The taste is quite strongly of the sea, brought out by the smokiness of the fish. Next we had an excellent dish and one of my favourites on the day: duck liver on a ‘tart' of apple. Sitting one top of some pureed mango, is one single thin buttery disc of pastry topped with some delicately curry flavoured apples with the most exquisite, soft and well cooked liver I have ever tasted, it has to be my starter of the year. Some recent customers got one to share and liked it so much that they got one each for the whole table of 6. Yes, it's that good.
Continuous improvement
The lobster salad that followed is one of those examples of the restaurant's attention to developing its dishes so they improve. It comes in a stack with a warm apple vinaigrette and is almost a crime to eat it and ruin it's pretty aesthetics. The meat was nicely poached, tender and very fresh tasting; some balls of papaya complemented the meat well. We also had some of the freshest scallops known to man that came with an apple sauce and some chopped nuts.
For the main we had the lamb rack and also some cutlets as a gift from the kitchen. The rack is cooked Provençal style, with some nice twists: you get the expected rosemary, then a turmeric sauce to flavour the moist and tender pink meat served alongside tempura Mediterranean vegetables. For me a complete hit. Whilst the restaurant has a great steak selection, it's nice to have a nice bit of lamb. You wont feel short changed if you opt for this.
With desserts Tropicana doesn't do heavy, instead it does light and flavourful: a cheesecake made with what seemed like a cheese mousse on an ultra-thin base slipped down the throat beautifully. A well–balanced tiramisu was just too hard to ignore and then the sumptuous pineapple ‘lasagne', which was layered, thinly sliced and caramelised with a coconut ice cream and toffee sauce. All were excellent.
You will have a great meal if you come here. It's great that they work hard to improve their dishes and it really shows in the excellent execution.
Quick Facts
What? Tropicana Beach Club restaurant
Where? Cala Jondal, Ibiza
When? 12.30 - 10.00pm (12.30am in high summer)
Why? Classy, relaxed and some amazingly well thought out dishes
Average spend per head? €44 for a starter, a main, a dessert and a glass of house wine
Veggie Options? They will make a veggie paella or provide a plate of roasted vegetables on request
Disabled Facilities? Yes
Top tips? A table close to the beach for stunning views
Room for Improvement? Not a lot, though making it clearer that vegetarians are catered for would be useful
WORDS | Julian Heathcote
